tree maintenance
there's more to trees than just planting them

newly planted trees

mulch

Mulching is the single most important factor in establishing a tree. It reduces the soil temperature of the root ball. It reduces water loss to evaporation. It adds nutrients as it decays. It reduces weed germination and helps avoid weed eater and lawn mower damage to the tree.

Put a healthy two to four inch layer of composted mulch inside the watering ring. Place no mulch against the trunk of the tree. Replenish the mulch two or three times a year as it washes away or decomposes. Obtain your mulch from a reliable source. Do not use mulch from treated or post consumer lumber.

water

Water newly planted trees 1 to 2 times per week until established. It is better to water slow and deep than to water shallow daily.

Fill the water ring around your tree and let the water soak in. Then fill the ring again.

If you have a drip ring or a bubbler system, water your tree slowly until it penetrates at least 6 inches below the surface. You can check this with a rod or a dowel pin. Push the rod into the soil until you feel resistance. Placing your thumb at ground level pull the rod out. Measure from your thumb to the end of the rod to determine how deep the water has penetrated.

Make sure the soil is completely dry on the surface before watering again. You can take a clue from the tree. Water when leaves on the lower branches are just beginning to show signs of wilt. If this is more than twice a week apply more water at each application but apply slowly to allow for penetration.

Read more tips on how to conserve water in your landscape.

Find out how Forestry is watering the container trees we grow for City of Fort Worth tree planting programs.

pruning

Once professionals recommended dramatically pruning a newly transplanted tree, or any tree that has received root damage. Their reasoning was that the canopy would be too large to be supported by the diminished root structure. Studies have shown however, that pruning a tree stimulates growth to the canopy at the expense of root growth. This is just the opposite of what we want for a newly transplanted tree. Aesthetic pruning should be done the fall or winter of the second year.

The central leader is the tallest limb with the most upward growth and is called the dominant leader. If more than one limb is dominant they are called co-dominant leaders. The limbs will grow together where they meet at the trunk, but the layers of bark between the two limbs will always be present creating a weak attachment. As the tree grows larger and the limbs become heavier, the chance of the tree splitting becomes greater. Large trees with co-dominant limbs are hard to correct. The best time to remove one is when the tree is young. In fact, the only pruning recommend on a newly planted tree is removing the weakest or least attractive co-dominant leader, if present, and removing any broken or damaged limbs.

aesthetic pruning

Training or pruning for aesthetics can begin the winter of the second year. Here are some rules of thumb to remember. Half of the crown should remain on the lower two thirds of the tree. Never remove more than one third of the canopy in one year. When removing limbs take them all the way back to the next largest limb or point of attachment. Do not leave stubs. For proper pruning cuts see this guide on How to Prune Trees by the United States Department of Agriculture.

Remove all dead or broken branches first. Then remove crossed or rubbing branches next. Lastly remove any Y crotched or narrowly attached branches. When removing bottom limbs for clearance remember that half of the crown should remain on the lower two thirds of the tree. This will help the trunk to develop a well defined taper and promotes stability.

mature trees

pruning

Once a tree is mature pruning should be left to a minimum. You may remove dead branches any time of the year. Diseased or broken branches can be removed at the time of detection. All other pruning should take place in the winter.

water

If the tree was established correctly with slow deep waterings, it should only need supplemental water during periods of drought. Once again water slowly to a depth of six inches or greater. If the tree was not established correctly it is not too late to do so now. Place a drip or soaker hose close to the drip line or one-third the way in. Water to a depth of six inches every two weeks. If the tree shows signs of wilting or heat stress, increase to once a week. Deep waterings will encourage the roots to grow deeper and will also increase the tree's drought tolerance.

turf vs. mulch

If you have a tree that is shading your yard so severely you can not grow even the shade tolerant grasses, you may consider laying down mulch in that area. It will give the tree a nutrient boost and add to the aesthetics of your yard. Two to four inches deep is adequate and do not place directly against the trunk.

planter boxes

Placing a raised flowerbed around the trunk of your tree is a bad idea. You want to maintain the original ground level at the trunk at all times. Placing soil against the trunk can hold excessive moisture and cause fungal growth or rodent damage.

aging trees

pruning

Any disturbance including a light pruning can be fatal to an old tree. An older tree has a decreased or negative growth rate. It needs every living leaf it has to produce biomass. Only prune dead or hazardous limbs. The slow growth rate of an old tree prolongs the time required to heal a cut or wound and increases the chance of disease or infection. It is essential that you use proper pruning cuts when pruning an old tree.

cavities

It was once a standard practice to fill tree cavities with cement. Any carpenter can tell you that untreated lumber next to concrete will rot. Cement holds moisture and will promote decay not decrease it. Do not fill any cavities with anything. If the tree is in a position to do damage if it falls, you may want to contact a certified arborist for a hazard evaluation. If the tree is in a secluded or natural area where it would not harm people or property if it falls, you may consider not treating it at all. Cavities in older trees are an important part of a natural ecosystem, providing habitat for a variety of wildlife.

water

Do not irrigate an older tree. You will kill it. Use only supplemental deep watering in times of drought.

fertilization

Do not fertilize an older tree with out a soil sample test. Over fertilizing a tree, especially with nitrogen can cause more harm than good. After fertilization the tree may put on a flush of growth and look phenomenal but remember new growth is more susceptible to pestilence and disease. Many broad leaf herbicides are growth hormones causing the plant to "grow to death".

Mulching is much preferred method of fertilization. Mulch provides a rich growing medium for plant roots. Your trees feeder roots can double in areas where mulch is provided. Place composted mulch two to four inches deep under as much of the dripline as practical. Mulch that is not composted can rob your soil of nitrogen. Do not place mulch or anything else directly against the trunk. The shade of older trees can be so dense that it is difficult to grow grass under most of the dripline. This is the perfect spot to mulch, improving the tree's health and your yard's aesthetics at the same time. Don't mulch too deep. Thick layers of much can soak up water like a sponge preventing moisture from reaching the soil below.