tree planting “how-to's”
learn how to plant your tree correctly

Ever wonder about the correct way to plant your new tree? By placing your mouse over different areas this illustration, you will discover some basic rules to follow.

back to tree planting page

Arboriculture, is an ever-expanding science. What was common practice as little as ten years ago may not be acceptable today. Here are the latest guidelines for proper tree planting.

The Correct Time

• Container grown plants can be planted during any season but we recommend planting all trees, shrubs, and woody vines during the dormant season.
• Balled and Burlapped trees should only be planted during the dormant season, late fall through winter.

Selecting the Site

• Trees Grow! Make sure you give your new tree enough room.
• Shade trees should not be any closer that 20 feet from your foundation and 25 feet from another large tree.
• Small ornamentals should not be closer than 10 feet from your home and 15 feet from any other tree.

Perk Test

• To check your site for proper drainage dig a hole the same size as the root ball.
• Fill with water and let sit overnight.
• If water is still in the hole in the morning, find another site to plant your tree.

Selecting the Tree

• The tree should have a single trunk. Multiple trunk trees, especially larger species, have inherent problems that will shorten their life.
• There should be only one central leader. The tallest limb should appear to be an extension of the trunk with all other limbs arising from it. More than one dominant leader will cause the tree to split later in life.
• There should be an obvious root flare. The bottom of the trunk should widen at the base where it is attached to the root crown. If not it may have been transplanted too deep. Another way to tell if the tree is planted too deep is to gently rock the trunk from side to side while holding the container or root ball stable. If the movement causes a gap between the soil and the trunk the tree was transplanted too deep.
• The fine roots should be white in appearance and firm, not woody or mushy.
• The buds should be plump and a thin layer of green should be detected between the bark and wood of twigs and branches. Anywhere the green layer is missing that section of the tree is dead.
• There should be no scars or tears along the trunk or major limbs.

Planting

• Dig a hole the same depth as the container and 2 to 3 times wider.
• Loosen the sides of the hole with a rake.
• Remove the root ball from the container by carefully laying it on its side and rolling the container back and forth with gentle pressure until the root ball is loosened. Slide the container from the root ball.
• Cut one to two inches deep along the side of the root ball in four places
• DO NOT LIFT TREE UP BY ITS TRUNK! Lift by the root ball or gently roll into the hole if the tree is too heavy. Make sure the top of the root ball is at ground level. This can be checked by placing the shovel handle across the top of the hole.
• If the hole is too deep, add enough soil to raise the root ball one to two inches above ground level. This will allow for settling of the added soil.
• Using the same soil that came out of the hole, fill the hole half way. Lightly tap the soil in around the root ball to eliminate air pockets. Amending the soil will create a difference in soil texture and may cause improper drainage. It will also encourage tree roots not to grow beyond the original hole.
• Wet down the added soil to further eliminate air pockets.
• Finish filling the hole and use the extra soil to create a water ring six inches outside the root ball. Do not place any soil over the original root ball.
• Gently tap down the soil and water.
• Place 2 inches of mulch inside and on top of the water ring, but keep all mulch off the trunk.
• Prune any dead or damaged limbs at the time of planting. You may also remove any co dominant leaders.
• DO NOT do any aesthetic pruning until the end of the second growing season.

Staking

• If at all possible DON'T. The tree will establish a stronger root system if not staked.
• If necessary stake the tree on two or three sides.
• Protect the tree from wire or use flexible ties.
• Stake the tree loosely enough that it sways in the wind from the base to encourage lateral root growth.
• Remove all staking material within one year or sooner if you detect the tree growing around the staking material.

Establishment

• Water with a slow drip such as from a soaker hose. Deep watering will encourage the roots to grow deeper and become more drought tolerant
• Water the tree once or twice weekly during the first two years.
• Take rainfall into consideration when watering trees. Do not water until soil beneath the mulch layer is completely dry.
• Keep the tree ring mulched for at least the first two years adding fresh mulch when needed.